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Guide to Monsaraz
Monsaraz is one of those villages that leaves a lasting impression. Not because of the number of monuments or the range of activities on offer, but because of the way time passes there – differently from the rest of the world. Within its medieval walls, with the Alqueva glistening below on one side, the Alentejo plain on the other, and the silence of the Alentejo enveloping us on all sides, we realise that some things need no haste – they need to be savoured.
This guide has been written for those who want more than just a quick visit. For those who really want to get to know this region, its flavours, its history and its people. And for those who choose Horta da Moura as their starting point, there’s a special advantage: we’re right here, just a few minutes from everything.
What you mustn’t miss, however much time you have
Monsaraz Castle
Conquered from the Moors in 1167 by D. Afonso Henriques and entrusted first to the Order of St James and then to the Order of Malta, Monsaraz Castle is one of the best-preserved castles on the Iberian Peninsula. From its battlements, the view over the Alqueva and the Alentejo plain is absolutely unforgettable at sunset; when the sky glows with shades of orange and lilac, you can see why photographers from all over the world come here specifically to capture this moment. Do the same.
The village itself is like a journey back in time: streets with uneven cobblestones, houses whitewashed and painted blue, little shops selling traditional crafts, the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa with its 14th-century Gothic frescoes, and the Manueline pillory in the main square – one of the best-preserved in the Alentejo.
The legend of the six cows and the genius of D. Nuno Álvares Pereira
In 1385, during the succession crisis that pitted Portugal against Castile, the castle fell under Castilian rule. Constable D. Nuno Álvares Pereira – one of the greatest military heroes in Portuguese history, who would shortly afterwards lead the victory at Aljubarrota – laid siege to Monsaraz with his army. Days passed without the defenders yielding. D. Nuno realised they were running out of provisions and came up with an idea that only a man of genius could have. One dark night, he ordered a local farmer to release six wild and starving cows near the castle, where there was good pasture. The Castilian defenders, starving and tempted by the sight of the cattle, opened the gates to capture them. It was a fatal mistake: D. Nuno’s men, hidden amongst the undergrowth, prevented the gates from closing, and the castle was recaptured before the Castilian reinforcements could arrive.
Six cows. That is how Monsaraz was recaptured for Portugal and has remained so to this day.
D. Nuno Álvares Pereira is such a prominent figure in this region that we also pay tribute to him at our accommodation in the Castle, the Dom Nuno by Horta da Moura – a place steeped in the history of this land that he helped to defend.
Practical tip: visit the castle at the end of the day. The afternoon light is quite different, and the atmosphere is more peaceful than in the middle of a summer’s day. There are lovely spots to sample a typical local wine whilst simply taking in the view.
Mourão Castle
Just 10 minutes from Horta da Moura, Mourão Castle is often overlooked by tourist itineraries, which makes it all the more special. Built on the orders of King Afonso IV, it stands on the highest point of the village and offers breathtaking views over the Alqueva and the border with Spain, just 7 km to the east.
It is a castle bearing the marks of time, with parts in ruins, and walls of schist, marble and granite that have withstood wars, the 1755 earthquake and neglect. There is an honesty in this imperfection that over-restored castles have lost. Admission is free.
Handy tip: climb the ramparts carefully – there are no railings, but the view is well worth it.
The Millennial Olive Trees of Horta da Moura
Before setting off to explore, there is something to discover right here on the grounds of Horta da Moura: an extraordinary collection of millennial olive trees, the oldest of which is almost 2,500 years old. Their gnarled trunks, rooted in the red Alentejo soil, are silent witnesses to the civilisations that have passed through here – Romans, Moors and medieval peoples. Strolling amongst them is an experience of serenity that is hard to describe and impossible to find anywhere else.
Megalithic culture: 7,000 years of history just a few kilometres away
One of the most striking surprises for anyone visiting this region is discovering that the area around Reguengos de Monsaraz is one of the richest in megalithic monuments on the Iberian Peninsula. Just minutes from Horta da Moura lie menhirs, dolmens and cromlechs that predate the pyramids of Egypt by thousands of years.
The Cromeleque do Xerez, a stone circle similar to Stonehenge, dating from around 5000 BC, is one of the most impressive. The Menir do Outeiro, over 4 metres tall, is another unmissable attraction. These monuments are not in museums or behind fences; they stand in the countryside, in plain view, integrated into the landscape as if they belonged to both the sky and the earth in equal measure.
Reguengos de Monsaraz Town Council has a detailed map of the megalithic trails in the region. You can also ask for one at the reception of Horta da Moura; we’ll be happy to point out the best routes.
Top tip: visit the menhirs at dawn or sunset – the low-angled light on the stones is so beautiful that no photograph can fully capture it.
Museu da Luz: The village under water
About 15 minutes from Horta da Moura, in the new village of Aldeia da Luz, lies one of Portugal’s most unique museums. In 2002, when the floodgates of the Alqueva Dam were closed, an entire village was submerged. The people, the dead, the animals, the plants – everything was moved to a new village built from scratch 3 km from the original. The old Luz was covered by water.
The Museu da Luz was born out of this story. Built from schist by architects Pedro Pacheco and Marie Clément, it faces the exact spot where the village once stood, and in one of the rooms there is a small window offering a view of the lake over the submerged fields. The ethnographic and archaeological collection houses the objects the inhabitants brought with them: crockery, tools, furniture, mementoes. In 2005, it received an honourable mention as the Best Museum in the Country.
It is a visit that leaves a lasting impression. Not because of its grandeur, but because of the human scale of it all — because of the story of a community that lost the place where it was born and tried to reconstruct its memory. It is up to us to preserve that memory.
Opening hours: summer (April–September) 10.00–13.00 / 14.30–18.00; winter (October–March) 9.30–13.00 / 14.30–17.30. Closed on Mondays. Admission: €2.
Sharish Distillery: Gin from the Alentejo
Sharish is one of the most wonderful stories to emerge from the Alentejo in recent times. Founded by António Cuco in Reguengos de Monsaraz, it is the first and only visitor centre on the Iberian Peninsula dedicated to gin – a drink that is very much in vogue and which, in this case, began in his wife’s pressure cooker. The name comes from the Arabic ‘sharish’, meaning rockrose, the plant that covers the hills of the Alentejo and which gave rise to the name Monsaraz.
The guided tour is free (at 11.00 and 15.30 every day) and includes the distillery, the production processes and the history of the project. For a more complete experience, there are guided tastings of four gins (bookable in advance) and the famous Blue Magic, which changes from blue to pink when mixed with tonic water.
Where: Caminho do Moureal, Reguengos de Monsaraz, about 12 minutes from Horta da Moura.
Where to eat: From our restaurant to local eateries
5 minutes away: Sítio da Moura and Sem Fim
Sítio da Moura, our own restaurant, is the most natural place to start and end the day. High-quality Alentejo cuisine created by a team led by Chef Maria Antónia, using local produce, and the tranquillity of not having to go anywhere. Breakfast featuring regional produce, lunch in the shade, dinner under the starry sky – every meal has its own moment. Book a table at Sítio da Moura Don’t miss the Alentejo-style brunch on Saturday lunchtimes.
Sem Fim is housed in a restored old olive oil mill, less than 5 minutes away, and offers one of the most authentic dining experiences in the area. The venue retains the original olive oil production equipment and has a terrace with superb views of the Alentejo countryside. It is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays; we recommend booking in advance.
Up to 30–40 minutes: the tables stored in memory
Taberna Gato Preto (Monsaraz, 8 mins) One of the cosiest spots near Horta da Moura, with a family atmosphere and regional cuisine. Ideal for a quick lunch or dinner near Monsaraz. Don’t miss the açorda or the oxtail.
Sahida (Monsaraz, inside the walls) A bar and restaurant with one of the best locations in Monsaraz, inside the walls with views over the Alqueva. Excellent Mediterranean cuisine in a charming setting, perfect for a late afternoon that slips into dinner before you know it.
Mercearia Gadanha (Estremoz, 40 mins) A surprise inside a gourmet grocery shop: it’s the entrance to one of the Alentejo’s most renowned restaurants, recognised in the Michelin Guide. Chef Michele Marques reinterprets Alentejo cuisine with skill and creativity: signature migas, black pork, and desserts that linger in the memory. The delicatessen at the entrance sells regional cheeses, sausages and wines. Booking essential: +351 268 333 262.
Adega Velha (Mourão, 10 mins) A Mourão classic, serving authentic Alentejo cuisine. The sort of place where locals have lunch at the counter and where soup comes before any set menu. When the mood takes them and people feel inspired, you can hear Alentejo folk singing – one of those things that isn’t planned but, when it happens, stays with you forever. I simply must recommend the Cozido de Grão and, to finish, the famous Bolo Rançoso.
Adega dos Ramalhos (Alandroal, 30–35 mins) Exceptional regional cuisine, fair prices, and that Alentejo atmosphere where the food tastes better because there’s nothing to be wary of. I recommend the tomato soup with fresh figs (in season).
Taberna Fim do Mundo (Redondo, 35 mins) A grocery shop dating back over 100 years, transformed into a tavern by Laura Pimenta, who quit her job, changed her life and created one of the most authentic restaurants in the Alentejo. Homemade snacks that change daily depending on what’s freshest, house wine served in jugs, and décor made from antique pieces salvaged from old houses – all of which are for sale on the premises. On Fridays there is live Alentejo folk singing. Open every day. It’s not a trendy restaurant – it’s much better than that and well worth a visit.
2-day itinerary — Monsaraz and the essentials
Day 1 — Arrive at a leisurely pace
Morning: Arrival at Horta da Moura. Drop off your bags, take a deep breath. Stroll amongst the ancient olive trees. There’s no rush – this is the pace of the Alentejo. If you’re visiting in summer, a dip in the pool is a must.
Afternoon: Head up to Monsaraz. Visit the castle, lose yourself in the streets, sit at an outdoor café overlooking the Alqueva. At sunset, stand on the battlements.
Evening: Dinner at Sitio da Moura After dinner, enjoy your first night of stargazing if it’s the right time of year; the Milky Way is already visible to the naked eye from the terrace. Take a blanket with you, let your eyes adjust to the darkness for 20 minutes, and look up. Complete Dark Sky Guide
Day 2 — Alqueva and Gin
Morning: Boat trip on the Alqueva. The lake looks different from the water — the scale is quite different, and Monsaraz in the background has a grandeur that you cannot imagine from land.
Lunch: Sem Fim (book in advance).
Afternoon: Visit to the Sharish Distillery in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Guided tour + commentary-led tasting. Return along the lakeshore.
Evening: Dinner at Adega Velha in Mourão, and if the sky is clear, it’s well worth heading up to Mourão Castle after dinner for a second session of stargazing. Its elevated position and the absence of artificial light in the surrounding area make it one of the best vantage points in the region.
5-day itinerary: For those who really want to stay a while
Day 1 — Arrive and relax
Horta da Moura has a swimming pool, sun loungers, olive trees and peace and quiet. That’s what the first day is for. Read, do nothing, leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind. You don’t visit the Alentejo – you’re welcomed there.
Dinner at Sitio da Moura . After dinner, enjoy your first night of stargazing by the lake – bring a blanket and a red-light torch, and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. The Milky Way reflected in the Alqueva is one of the most memorable experiences in this region. Complete Dark Sky Guide Day 2 — Monsaraz and its medieval history
Morning: A leisurely visit to Monsaraz Castle — the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa, the pillory, the whitewashed streets. Lunch at Taverna Os Templários, inside the castle walls.
Afternoon: A visit to the Fresco Museum in the historic centre, featuring the famous medieval fresco of the ‘Good and Bad Judge’, a rarity in Portugal.
Evening: Dinner at Sem Fim Followed by a night of stargazing on the lakeshore – the darkness by the water is absolute, and the reflection of the sky on the surface of the Alqueva is simply impossible to describe.
Day 3 — The Alqueva by boat, Aldeia da Luz and the river beach
Morning: Boat trip on the Alqueva; there are options ranging from 1 hour to half a day, with stops at deserted river beaches that can only be reached by water. One of these allows you to disembark and walk to Monte dos Pássaros, the only remnant to have survived the flooding of Aldeia da Luz – one of the most striking stories associated with this lake. Another is Ilha Dourada, which is well worth a visit and a swim if time permits.
Afternoon: Visit to the Museu da Luz in the new Aldeia da Luz, 15 minutes from Horta da Moura. The original village was submerged in 2002 when the dam gates were closed; the museum preserves the objects, memories and identity of a community that lost the place where it was born. From one of the windows, you can see the lake right where the village once stood. Afterwards, enjoy the Monsaraz River Beach with its calm waters, golden sands and the medieval village in the background. One of the most beautiful river beaches in the country.
Sharish Distillery: leave this for Day 4, or visit after the boat trip if places are available.
Evening: Dinner at Adega Velha in Mourão and, if the atmosphere is right, you might even hear some Alentejo folk singing. After dinner, head up to Mourão Castle at night; with the lake glistening below and a sky free from light pollution, it’s a whole different world. One of the region’s lesser-known yet most impressive Dark Sky experiences.
Day 4 — Estremoz, megalithic sites, Reguengos and local crafts
If it’s a Saturday, the day begins with a visit to the Estremoz Second-hand and Antiques Fair at Rossio Marquês de Pombal – one of the most special fairs in the Alentejo, where you’ll find everything from Alentejo ceramics and crockery to antique furniture, books, copperware and treasures that can only be found on these Saturday-morning stalls.
Morning: Estremoz Market (Saturdays) or, on other days, a morning spent exploring the region’s megalithic monuments – the Cromeleque do Xerez and the Menir do Outeiro are just a few minutes’ walk from Horta da Moura and predate the pyramids of Egypt by thousands of years. One of the areas richest in megalithic sites on the Iberian Peninsula, yet one that most visitors rush past without realising it exists.Map of the megalithic trails
Lunch: Mercearia Gadanhain Estremoz (if it’s a Saturday and you can time it to coincide with the market) – a Michelin-starred restaurant. Booking essential: +351 268 333 262.
Afternoon: Return via Reguengos de Monsaraz, including a visit to Fabricaal, a factory producing traditional Alentejo blankets and rugs, open to visitors from Monday to Friday (10.00–13.15 and 15.00–17.00). And also the Sharish Distillery – if not visited the previous day – with a free guided tour at 11.00 or 15.30.
Evening: Free evening in Horta da Moura. Dinner at Sítio da Moura – this time, treat yourself to Bacalhau no Pão (cod in bread) and then, if the sky is clear, and in the Alentejo it almost always is, enjoy stargazing by the lake. By this stage of your stay, you’ll already know where the best views are, you’ll have spotted Scorpio and found the Milky Way on your own.
Day 5 — The farewell that doesn’t feel like a farewell
Morning: A final walk amongst the olive trees. A leisurely breakfast. Anyone who wishes can visit the Monsaraz River Beach, one of the most beautiful in the country, with calm waters, golden sands and the medieval village in the background. Afternoon: If you haven’t been yet, now is the time to visit Taberna Fim do Mundo in Redondo – if it’s a Friday, there’s live Alentejo singing. It’s worth the trip for that alone.
Final lunch/dinner: Sítio da Moura – your last meal deserves to be here.
Farewell night: One last time under the stars. Five days in Alqueva teach you to look up in a different way – you can now recognise constellations, you know to wait for your eyes to adjust, and you realise that the silence of the Alentejo and the silence of space are one and the same.
Fairs, markets and crafts not to be missed
Estremoz Second-hand and Antiques Fair every Saturday morning at Rossio Marquês de Pombal. Antiques, ceramics, copperware, books and surprises. 40 minutes from Horta da Moura.
Fabricaal a factory producing traditional Alentejo blankets and rugs in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Open for visits Monday to Friday, 10.00–13.15 and 15.00–17.00. Online shop available.
Monsaraz Medieval Fair — summer, dates to be confirmed; historical re-enactments, crafts and medieval cuisine within the city walls.
Alqueva Festivals — cultural and water-based entertainment by the lake during the summer.
For specific dates, we recommend checking with the Reguengos de Monsaraz Town Council or asking at reception at Horta da Moura – we always know what’s going on in the region.
What to pack (and what to leave at home)
What to take:
- A hat and sun cream — the Alentejo sun is relentless, even in April
- Comfortable footwear for the uneven pavements of Monsaraz
- An extra layer for the evenings — it gets chilly even in July
- A camera — the light here is unlike anywhere else
Leave at home:
- Rushing
- The noise of notifications
- The feeling that you have to do a lot to have a good trip
How far we are from everything
Destination | Distance from Horta da Moura | Approximate time
- Monsaraz Castle | 4 km | 8 mins
- Monsaraz River Beach | 5 km | 10 mins
- Mourão (Adega Velha + castle) | 10 km | 15 mins
- Xerez Stone Circle / Megalithic Site | 10 km | 15 mins
- Museu da Luz | 12 km | 15 mins
- Sharish Gin | 15 km | 20 mins
- Reguengos de Monsaraz (Fabricaal) | 15 km | 20 mins
- Alandroal (Adega dos Ramalhos) | 30 km | 35 mins
- Taberna Fim do Mundo (Redondo) | 32 km | 35 mins
- Estremoz (Market + Mercearia Gadanha) | 38 km | 40 mins
- Évora | 60 km | 50 mins
Monsaraz isn’t a tick-box destination. It’s a place where life moves at the pace of slow mornings, long afternoons and nights under a starry sky you never imagined could exist like this.
Horta da Moura is right here, in the midst of it all, with its olive trees, lake and tranquillity. Whenever you’d like to visit, we’ll be here waiting for you.
Horta da Moura — Estrada de Monsaraz, km 4, Mourão. Bookings | Book a table at Sítio da Moura
Monsaraz is one of those villages that leaves a lasting impression. Not because of the number of monuments or the range of activities on offer, but because of the way time passes there – differently from the rest of the world. Within its medieval walls, with the Alqueva glistening below on one side, the Alentejo plain on the other, and the silence of the Alentejo enveloping us on all sides, we realise that some things need no haste – they need to be savoured.
This guide has been written for those who want more than just a quick visit. For those who really want to get to know this region, its flavours, its history and its people. And for those who choose Horta da Moura as their starting point, there’s a special advantage: we’re right here, just a few minutes from everything.
What you mustn’t miss, however much time you have
Monsaraz Castle
Conquered from the Moors in 1167 by D. Afonso Henriques and entrusted first to the Order of St James and then to the Order of Malta, Monsaraz Castle is one of the best-preserved castles on the Iberian Peninsula. From its battlements, the view over the Alqueva and the Alentejo plain is absolutely unforgettable at sunset; when the sky glows with shades of orange and lilac, you can see why photographers from all over the world come here specifically to capture this moment. Do the same.
The village itself is like a journey back in time: streets with uneven cobblestones, houses whitewashed and painted blue, little shops selling traditional crafts, the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa with its 14th-century Gothic frescoes, and the Manueline pillory in the main square – one of the best-preserved in the Alentejo.
The legend of the six cows and the genius of D. Nuno Álvares Pereira
In 1385, during the succession crisis that pitted Portugal against Castile, the castle fell under Castilian rule. Constable D. Nuno Álvares Pereira – one of the greatest military heroes in Portuguese history, who would shortly afterwards lead the victory at Aljubarrota – laid siege to Monsaraz with his army. Days passed without the defenders yielding. D. Nuno realised they were running out of provisions and came up with an idea that only a man of genius could have. One dark night, he ordered a local farmer to release six wild and starving cows near the castle, where there was good pasture. The Castilian defenders, starving and tempted by the sight of the cattle, opened the gates to capture them. It was a fatal mistake: D. Nuno’s men, hidden amongst the undergrowth, prevented the gates from closing, and the castle was recaptured before the Castilian reinforcements could arrive.
Six cows. That is how Monsaraz was recaptured for Portugal and has remained so to this day.
D. Nuno Álvares Pereira is such a prominent figure in this region that we also pay tribute to him at our accommodation in the Castle, the Dom Nuno by Horta da Moura – a place steeped in the history of this land that he helped to defend.
Practical tip: visit the castle at the end of the day. The afternoon light is quite different, and the atmosphere is more peaceful than in the middle of a summer’s day. There are lovely spots to sample a typical local wine whilst simply taking in the view.
Mourão Castle
Just 10 minutes from Horta da Moura, Mourão Castle is often overlooked by tourist itineraries, which makes it all the more special. Built on the orders of King Afonso IV, it stands on the highest point of the village and offers breathtaking views over the Alqueva and the border with Spain, just 7 km to the east.
It is a castle bearing the marks of time, with parts in ruins, and walls of schist, marble and granite that have withstood wars, the 1755 earthquake and neglect. There is an honesty in this imperfection that over-restored castles have lost. Admission is free.
Handy tip: climb the ramparts carefully – there are no railings, but the view is well worth it.
The Millennial Olive Trees of Horta da Moura
Before setting off to explore, there is something to discover right here on the grounds of Horta da Moura: an extraordinary collection of millennial olive trees, the oldest of which is almost 2,500 years old. Their gnarled trunks, rooted in the red Alentejo soil, are silent witnesses to the civilisations that have passed through here – Romans, Moors and medieval peoples. Strolling amongst them is an experience of serenity that is hard to describe and impossible to find anywhere else.
Megalithic culture: 7,000 years of history just a few kilometres away
One of the most striking surprises for anyone visiting this region is discovering that the area around Reguengos de Monsaraz is one of the richest in megalithic monuments on the Iberian Peninsula. Just minutes from Horta da Moura lie menhirs, dolmens and cromlechs that predate the pyramids of Egypt by thousands of years.
The Cromeleque do Xerez, a stone circle similar to Stonehenge, dating from around 5000 BC, is one of the most impressive. The Menir do Outeiro, over 4 metres tall, is another unmissable attraction. These monuments are not in museums or behind fences; they stand in the countryside, in plain view, integrated into the landscape as if they belonged to both the sky and the earth in equal measure.
Reguengos de Monsaraz Town Council has a detailed map of the megalithic trails in the region. You can also ask for one at the reception of Horta da Moura; we’ll be happy to point out the best routes.
Top tip: visit the menhirs at dawn or sunset – the low-angled light on the stones is so beautiful that no photograph can fully capture it.
Museu da Luz: The village under water
About 15 minutes from Horta da Moura, in the new village of Aldeia da Luz, lies one of Portugal’s most unique museums. In 2002, when the floodgates of the Alqueva Dam were closed, an entire village was submerged. The people, the dead, the animals, the plants – everything was moved to a new village built from scratch 3 km from the original. The old Luz was covered by water.
The Museu da Luz was born out of this story. Built from schist by architects Pedro Pacheco and Marie Clément, it faces the exact spot where the village once stood, and in one of the rooms there is a small window offering a view of the lake over the submerged fields. The ethnographic and archaeological collection houses the objects the inhabitants brought with them: crockery, tools, furniture, mementoes. In 2005, it received an honourable mention as the Best Museum in the Country.
It is a visit that leaves a lasting impression. Not because of its grandeur, but because of the human scale of it all — because of the story of a community that lost the place where it was born and tried to reconstruct its memory. It is up to us to preserve that memory.
Opening hours: summer (April–September) 10.00–13.00 / 14.30–18.00; winter (October–March) 9.30–13.00 / 14.30–17.30. Closed on Mondays. Admission: €2.
Sharish Distillery: Gin from the Alentejo
Sharish is one of the most wonderful stories to emerge from the Alentejo in recent times. Founded by António Cuco in Reguengos de Monsaraz, it is the first and only visitor centre on the Iberian Peninsula dedicated to gin – a drink that is very much in vogue and which, in this case, began in his wife’s pressure cooker. The name comes from the Arabic ‘sharish’, meaning rockrose, the plant that covers the hills of the Alentejo and which gave rise to the name Monsaraz.
The guided tour is free (at 11.00 and 15.30 every day) and includes the distillery, the production processes and the history of the project. For a more complete experience, there are guided tastings of four gins (bookable in advance) and the famous Blue Magic, which changes from blue to pink when mixed with tonic water.
Where: Caminho do Moureal, Reguengos de Monsaraz, about 12 minutes from Horta da Moura.
Where to eat: From our restaurant to local eateries
5 minutes away: Sítio da Moura and Sem Fim
Sítio da Moura, our own restaurant, is the most natural place to start and end the day. High-quality Alentejo cuisine created by a team led by Chef Maria Antónia, using local produce, and the tranquillity of not having to go anywhere. Breakfast featuring regional produce, lunch in the shade, dinner under the starry sky – every meal has its own moment. Book a table at Sítio da Moura Don’t miss the Alentejo-style brunch on Saturday lunchtimes.
Sem Fim is housed in a restored old olive oil mill, less than 5 minutes away, and offers one of the most authentic dining experiences in the area. The venue retains the original olive oil production equipment and has a terrace with superb views of the Alentejo countryside. It is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays; we recommend booking in advance.
Up to 30–40 minutes: the tables stored in memory
Taberna Gato Preto (Monsaraz, 8 mins) One of the cosiest spots near Horta da Moura, with a family atmosphere and regional cuisine. Ideal for a quick lunch or dinner near Monsaraz. Don’t miss the açorda or the oxtail.
Sahida (Monsaraz, inside the walls) A bar and restaurant with one of the best locations in Monsaraz, inside the walls with views over the Alqueva. Excellent Mediterranean cuisine in a charming setting, perfect for a late afternoon that slips into dinner before you know it.
Mercearia Gadanha (Estremoz, 40 mins) A surprise inside a gourmet grocery shop: it’s the entrance to one of the Alentejo’s most renowned restaurants, recognised in the Michelin Guide. Chef Michele Marques reinterprets Alentejo cuisine with skill and creativity: signature migas, black pork, and desserts that linger in the memory. The delicatessen at the entrance sells regional cheeses, sausages and wines. Booking essential: +351 268 333 262.
Adega Velha (Mourão, 10 mins) A Mourão classic, serving authentic Alentejo cuisine. The sort of place where locals have lunch at the counter and where soup comes before any set menu. When the mood takes them and people feel inspired, you can hear Alentejo folk singing – one of those things that isn’t planned but, when it happens, stays with you forever. I simply must recommend the Cozido de Grão and, to finish, the famous Bolo Rançoso.
Adega dos Ramalhos (Alandroal, 30–35 mins) Exceptional regional cuisine, fair prices, and that Alentejo atmosphere where the food tastes better because there’s nothing to be wary of. I recommend the tomato soup with fresh figs (in season).
Taberna Fim do Mundo (Redondo, 35 mins) A grocery shop dating back over 100 years, transformed into a tavern by Laura Pimenta, who quit her job, changed her life and created one of the most authentic restaurants in the Alentejo. Homemade snacks that change daily depending on what’s freshest, house wine served in jugs, and décor made from antique pieces salvaged from old houses – all of which are for sale on the premises. On Fridays there is live Alentejo folk singing. Open every day. It’s not a trendy restaurant – it’s much better than that and well worth a visit.
2-day itinerary — Monsaraz and the essentials
Day 1 — Arrive at a leisurely pace
Morning: Arrival at Horta da Moura. Drop off your bags, take a deep breath. Stroll amongst the ancient olive trees. There’s no rush – this is the pace of the Alentejo. If you’re visiting in summer, a dip in the pool is a must.
Afternoon: Head up to Monsaraz. Visit the castle, lose yourself in the streets, sit at an outdoor café overlooking the Alqueva. At sunset, stand on the battlements.
Evening: Dinner at Sitio da Moura After dinner, enjoy your first night of stargazing if it’s the right time of year; the Milky Way is already visible to the naked eye from the terrace. Take a blanket with you, let your eyes adjust to the darkness for 20 minutes, and look up. Complete Dark Sky Guide
Day 2 — Alqueva and Gin
Morning: Boat trip on the Alqueva. The lake looks different from the water — the scale is quite different, and Monsaraz in the background has a grandeur that you cannot imagine from land.
Lunch: Sem Fim (book in advance).
Afternoon: Visit to the Sharish Distillery in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Guided tour + commentary-led tasting. Return along the lakeshore.
Evening: Dinner at Adega Velha in Mourão, and if the sky is clear, it’s well worth heading up to Mourão Castle after dinner for a second session of stargazing. Its elevated position and the absence of artificial light in the surrounding area make it one of the best vantage points in the region.
5-day itinerary: For those who really want to stay a while
Day 1 — Arrive and relax
Horta da Moura has a swimming pool, sun loungers, olive trees and peace and quiet. That’s what the first day is for. Read, do nothing, leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind. You don’t visit the Alentejo – you’re welcomed there.
Dinner at Sitio da Moura . After dinner, enjoy your first night of stargazing by the lake – bring a blanket and a red-light torch, and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. The Milky Way reflected in the Alqueva is one of the most memorable experiences in this region. Complete Dark Sky Guide
Morning: A leisurely visit to Monsaraz Castle — the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa, the pillory, the whitewashed streets. Lunch at Taverna Os Templários, inside the castle walls.
Afternoon: A visit to the Fresco Museum in the historic centre, featuring the famous medieval fresco of the ‘Good and Bad Judge’, a rarity in Portugal.
Evening: Dinner at Sem Fim Followed by a night of stargazing on the lakeshore – the darkness by the water is absolute, and the reflection of the sky on the surface of the Alqueva is simply impossible to describe.
Day 3 — The Alqueva by boat, Aldeia da Luz and the river beach
Morning: Boat trip on the Alqueva; there are options ranging from 1 hour to half a day, with stops at deserted river beaches that can only be reached by water. One of these allows you to disembark and walk to Monte dos Pássaros, the only remnant to have survived the flooding of Aldeia da Luz – one of the most striking stories associated with this lake. Another is Ilha Dourada, which is well worth a visit and a swim if time permits.
Afternoon: Visit to the Museu da Luz in the new Aldeia da Luz, 15 minutes from Horta da Moura. The original village was submerged in 2002 when the dam gates were closed; the museum preserves the objects, memories and identity of a community that lost the place where it was born. From one of the windows, you can see the lake right where the village once stood. Afterwards, enjoy the Monsaraz River Beach with its calm waters, golden sands and the medieval village in the background. One of the most beautiful river beaches in the country.
Sharish Distillery: leave this for Day 4, or visit after the boat trip if places are available.
Evening: Dinner at Adega Velha in Mourão and, if the atmosphere is right, you might even hear some Alentejo folk singing. After dinner, head up to Mourão Castle at night; with the lake glistening below and a sky free from light pollution, it’s a whole different world. One of the region’s lesser-known yet most impressive Dark Sky experiences.
Day 4 — Estremoz, megalithic sites, Reguengos and local crafts
If it’s a Saturday, the day begins with a visit to the Estremoz Second-hand and Antiques Fair at Rossio Marquês de Pombal – one of the most special fairs in the Alentejo, where you’ll find everything from Alentejo ceramics and crockery to antique furniture, books, copperware and treasures that can only be found on these Saturday-morning stalls.
Morning: Estremoz Market (Saturdays) or, on other days, a morning spent exploring the region’s megalithic monuments – the Cromeleque do Xerez and the Menir do Outeiro are just a few minutes’ walk from Horta da Moura and predate the pyramids of Egypt by thousands of years. One of the areas richest in megalithic sites on the Iberian Peninsula, yet one that most visitors rush past without realising it exists.Map of the megalithic trails
Lunch: Mercearia Gadanhain Estremoz (if it’s a Saturday and you can time it to coincide with the market) – a Michelin-starred restaurant. Booking essential: +351 268 333 262.
Afternoon: Return via Reguengos de Monsaraz, including a visit to Fabricaal, a factory producing traditional Alentejo blankets and rugs, open to visitors from Monday to Friday (10.00–13.15 and 15.00–17.00). And also the Sharish Distillery – if not visited the previous day – with a free guided tour at 11.00 or 15.30.
Evening: Free evening in Horta da Moura. Dinner at Sítio da Moura – this time, treat yourself to Bacalhau no Pão (cod in bread) and then, if the sky is clear, and in the Alentejo it almost always is, enjoy stargazing by the lake. By this stage of your stay, you’ll already know where the best views are, you’ll have spotted Scorpio and found the Milky Way on your own.
Day 5 — The farewell that doesn’t feel like a farewell
Morning: A final walk amongst the olive trees. A leisurely breakfast. Anyone who wishes can visit the Monsaraz River Beach, one of the most beautiful in the country, with calm waters, golden sands and the medieval village in the background. Afternoon: If you haven’t been yet, now is the time to visit Taberna Fim do Mundo in Redondo – if it’s a Friday, there’s live Alentejo singing. It’s worth the trip for that alone.
Final lunch/dinner: Sítio da Moura – your last meal deserves to be here.
Farewell night: One last time under the stars. Five days in Alqueva teach you to look up in a different way – you can now recognise constellations, you know to wait for your eyes to adjust, and you realise that the silence of the Alentejo and the silence of space are one and the same.
Fairs, markets and crafts not to be missed
Estremoz Second-hand and Antiques Fair every Saturday morning at Rossio Marquês de Pombal. Antiques, ceramics, copperware, books and surprises. 40 minutes from Horta da Moura.
Fabricaal a factory producing traditional Alentejo blankets and rugs in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Open for visits Monday to Friday, 10.00–13.15 and 15.00–17.00. Online shop available.
Monsaraz Medieval Fair — summer, dates to be confirmed; historical re-enactments, crafts and medieval cuisine within the city walls.
Alqueva Festivals — cultural and water-based entertainment by the lake during the summer.
For specific dates, we recommend checking with the Reguengos de Monsaraz Town Council or asking at reception at Horta da Moura – we always know what’s going on in the region.
What to pack (and what to leave at home)
What to take:
- A hat and sun cream — the Alentejo sun is relentless, even in April
- Comfortable footwear for the uneven pavements of Monsaraz
- An extra layer for the evenings — it gets chilly even in July
- A camera — the light here is unlike anywhere else
Leave at home:
- Rushing
- The noise of notifications
- The feeling that you have to do a lot to have a good trip
How far we are from everything
Destination | Distance from Horta da Moura | Approximate time
- Monsaraz Castle | 4 km | 8 mins
- Monsaraz River Beach | 5 km | 10 mins
- Mourão (Adega Velha + castle) | 10 km | 15 mins
- Xerez Stone Circle / Megalithic Site | 10 km | 15 mins
- Museu da Luz | 12 km | 15 mins
- Sharish Gin | 15 km | 20 mins
- Reguengos de Monsaraz (Fabricaal) | 15 km | 20 mins
- Alandroal (Adega dos Ramalhos) | 30 km | 35 mins
- Taberna Fim do Mundo (Redondo) | 32 km | 35 mins
- Estremoz (Market + Mercearia Gadanha) | 38 km | 40 mins
- Évora | 60 km | 50 mins
Monsaraz isn’t a tick-box destination. It’s a place where life moves at the pace of slow mornings, long afternoons and nights under a starry sky you never imagined could exist like this.
Horta da Moura is right here, in the midst of it all, with its olive trees, lake and tranquillity. Whenever you’d like to visit, we’ll be here waiting for you.
Horta da Moura — Estrada de Monsaraz, km 4, Mourão. Bookings | Book a table at Sítio da Moura